Japan | Pt. 3 | Kyoto Days, Osaka Nights, Fukuoka Stopover

Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto Japan

Over the past few months we have been detail­ing our trav­els across Japan that took place just over a year ago. In Part 1, we arrived in Tokyo, and in Part 2 we made our way to Fujisan and Yudanaka’s hot springs. This, is Part 3.

It had been six hours worth of train rides from Yudana­ka to Kyoto and we arrived just as the sun was start­ing to set. We hopped off of our train and walked under and through Kyoto Station’s mar­vel­lous archi­tec­ture, rush­ing over to the taxi stands so we could acquaint our­selves with the city in the lit­tle bit of day­light that was left.

In our time there, we came to real­ize that Kyoto is a city don­ning many dif­fer­ent hats, and at its core, is the melt­ing pot of Japan’s past and present.

Kyoto is prob­a­bly most famous for its over 1600 tem­ples — the very rea­son we found our­selves in Japan’s for­mer cap­i­tal. But in our time there, we came to real­ize that Kyoto is a city don­ning many dif­fer­ent hats, and at its core, is the melt­ing pot of Japan’s past and present. The result is his­tor­i­cal land­marks sur­round­ed by mod­ern archi­tec­ture and sophis­ti­cat­ed shop­ping dis­tricts, a dual­i­ty that makes for some always inter­est­ing, occa­sion­al­ly jaw-dropping walks. For us how­ev­er, it was the city’s intri­cate net­work of alley­ways that real­ly stuck out and where we spent most of our time explor­ing. The truth is, if you’re not on a main street in Kyoto, you’re prob­a­bly in an alley­way, lit­tered with hun­dred of bicy­cles, res­i­dents, shop-owners, and the occa­sion­al mini-truck try­ing to make its way through.

Kyoto alleyways Kyoto alleyways Kyoto alleyways

We checked into the Mit­sui Gar­den, a sleek lit­tle bou­tique hotel off of one of these very alley­ways. Like Kyoto, it blends mod­ern design with Japan­ese cul­tur­al ele­ments to cre­ate a real­ly unique aes­thet­ic. Small warn­ing: if you con­stant­ly flip your pil­low to the cool side through­out the night, you won’t be doing that here because they fill the under­side of their pil­lows with a thin lay­er of rocks. It’s an inter­est­ing concept.

Mitsui Garden Hotel Mitsui Garden Hotel

The fol­low­ing day, we went on a tem­ple run. We took a bus up Gojo-Dori to south­ern Higashiya­ma, a bustling tem­ple dis­trict with­in the city that’s also home to Gion, Kyoto’s tra­di­tion­al enter­tain­ment dis­trict (com­mon­ly referred to as the Geisha Dis­trict). The first thing we did was vis­it the Kiyomizu-dera Temple.

Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan Kyoto Streets Japan Travel Kyoto Temple
Kyoto Temple

The point in the day where too many pho­tos have been taken.

Now, full dis­clo­sure: despite of how amaz­ing the sights and struc­tures in Higashiya­ma were, we’d be lying if we didn’t men­tion that there was a pret­ty dras­tic dis­con­nect between our expec­ta­tions and the real­i­ty that await­ed us. The tem­ples them­selves were over­ly com­mer­cial­ized to the point of feel­ing like a major attrac­tion (there’s some­thing very wrong about vend­ing machines in ancient Bud­dhist tem­ples) and it gen­er­al­ly felt like a giant tourist trap. You pay a fee to get into dif­fer­ent parts of each tem­ple and are usu­al­ly walk­ing amidst swarms of tourists and natives com­ing out to admire the foliage. Per­haps the fall tran­si­tion may have been too busy of a time to vis­it, or maybe the area is sim­ply too close to the heart of Kyoto to ever be peace­ful, but we’ve vowed to head straight to the more remote tem­ples just out­side the city the next time we’re in the area.

Nonethe­less, we explored every­thing the area had to offer and, with­out real­ly mean­ing to, stum­bled into Gion, where we spot­ted a geisha-in-training.

Gion District Geisha Gion District Geisha District Kyoto Geisha District Kyoto gojo-dori kyoto gojo-dori kyoto

The next day was one of our favourite from the entire trip. We made our way to the Arashiya­ma dis­trict in the out­skirts of Kyoto, rent­ed bikes, and rode around the small town the whole after­noon, even­tu­al­ly reach­ing the infa­mous bam­boo groves.

Arashiyama in Fall Arashiyama in Fall Arashiyama bike rental Arashiyama bamboo forest Arashiyama bamboo forest Arashiyama bamboo forest Arashiyama bamboo forest Arashiyama bamboo forest Arashiyama bike rental

It wouldn’t be a suc­cess­ful day if we didn’t man­age to cram as many activ­i­ties as pos­si­ble, so as we returned our bikes, we decid­ed (last-minute) that we couldn’t leave Kyoto the next day with­out see­ing the Fushi­mi Inari Shrine. It was already late in the after­noon and being 40 min­utes away, we were risk­ing hav­ing the sun set on us while on the train. Regard­less, we took a chance and arrived with just 15 min­utes of sun­set left to take some pho­tos inside the tun­nels com­prised of hun­dreds of torii gates.

Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto

We reward­ed our­selves with green tea ice cream and amaz­ing coffee.

green tea ice cream

The fol­low­ing day we left for Osa­ka. Being just an hour away from Kyoto, we should have had time to make the most of our one and only day there, but we may have par­tied a lit­tle too hard the night before and instead found our­selves zombie-ing our way through the trains, just mak­ing it to our hotel before sleep­ing the after­noon away. It’s a sad tale of cau­tion: when your friend­ly wait­er at Sum­ibi Tori­to keeps bring­ing you drinks, you should stop while you can still count them.

Either way, we rose just as the sun was set­ting and went on to have an amaz­ing night in Osaka.

Osaka sunset

Our first stop was a much-needed cof­fee at graf. Beyond being a per­fect lit­tle cof­fee shop, graf is main­ly a design stu­dio spe­cial­iz­ing in fur­ni­ture. Look to the oth­er end of the space and you’ll like­ly see the group sketch­ing away at new designs. The atmos­phere here is unmatched.

graf osaka graf osaka

From there, we took a cab over to Nam­ba Parks — the most elab­o­rate mall we’ve ever set foot in — for a quick din­ner before strolling through the packed streets of Osa­ka and end­ing the night at the Gli­co Man sign. Well, tech­ni­cal­ly it end­ed with some unex­pect­ed yet very wel­come crepes on the walk back.

namba parks osaka Namba Parks Osaka osaka nightlife osaka nightlife osaka osaka nightlife glico man osaka glico man osaka

The fol­low­ing morn­ing we walked over to graf for more cof­fee and yet anoth­er round of crepes before our 3‑hour bul­let train to Fukuoka.

graf osaka kinfolk graf osaka kinfolk graf osaka kinfolk graf osaka kinfolk graf osaka kinfolk

Fukuo­ka would be our last and fur­thest stop on the south­ern coast of Japan. It was anoth­er night of walk­ing through crazy malls and wind­ing side streets, but we were exhaust­ed from all the trav­el­ing and took a night off of pho­tos to take it all in. BUT we did break out the cam­era for one very wor­thy cap­ture at an owl cafe we came upon.

japan owl cafe

By this point in our trav­els, we had tak­en a total of 20 hours worth of trains since we had left Tokyo. We look back at all those hours fond­ly — each and every one of those rides yield­ed some of the most awe-inspiring sights that we had had the plea­sure of jet­ting past. We can hon­est­ly say that one of our favourite things to do in Japan is grab a few beers, load up on snacks, sit on a train (prefer­ably a Shinkansen) and stare out the spa­cious windows.

japanese shinkansen

As we rolled our lug­gage over to Fukuo­ka sta­tion and car­ried it up the long sets of stairs lead­ing to our ter­mi­nal, we came face-to-face with the last bul­let train we’d take for the remain­der of our stay. It was with heavy hearts that we entered it and found our seats. It was a sad moment, but we took solace in the fact that our adven­ture was­n’t over yet- we had three more days left in Tokyo. As beau­ti­ful of an idea as that was, we could­n’t help but sim­ply stare out of our win­dow for the next 5 hours.

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